Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Timberline Trail

I wrote this run/hike/life report back in October 2014 but never got around to posting it... and am now reminded that we didn't make this an annual trip as planned. I guess there's always next year.

The Timberline Trail is a 42 mile trail that loops around Mt. Hood, one of our favourite places in the world. And having moved to Bend earlier this year, we not only can go run around it but we can also see the mountain most days!

Before getting into the details of our 16-hour adventure (yeah, I know, we like to dawdle sometimes), let's back up a little and talk about the year so far. Similar to last year I haven't exactly done anything stellar (or even mediocre) on the running front with the exception of Arrowhead 135 back in February which was a complete blast and which we are signed up for again. But, life has been good in every way possible - expect that it zips by way too quickly.


We had an amazing trip to Istanbul in April complete with an unplanned 28k trail race (thanks to the super friendly locals). I have wanted to visit Turkey for years and when the opportunity came up to combine a work trip with some vacation we couldn't say no. The Delta miles made it an easy decision for Chris to come too. One of the days I worked, Chris did an epic (road) run from Istanbul to the Black Sea and back - approx 46 miles round trip.


The trip to Turkey was also a nice distraction from the business of house-hunting - a miserable affair at the best of times and plain annoying when trying to find a reasonable rental with a bit of space (for the woofs) in Silicon Valley. We were living in a 1200 sq ft 2-bed with a garden shed (still not sure how we managed to stuff all our gear into it) - the house was kind of crappy but the yard was huge and private and so we'd enjoyed the 2 years of living there. But the house was sold and we had to be out mid-summer. I can't remember how many houses we looked at in the end but for the most part it was depressing and the only decent stuff was going to cost at least 25% more than our current rent and there were always drawbacks - tiny yard, no decent internet (it's true for the 'mountain' houses, despite only being a hop, skip and a jump from Google, Apple, eBay etc), horrible commute etc. At the same time Chris was starting a new gig as a Wildland Firefighter based out of central Oregon for the fire season - typically June to October. So we really needed to find a place close to my work so that I could get home easily for the dogs mid-day and ideally a secure yard that they could lounge around in all day. They are active dogs but they have a distinct lazy side too. A bit like their mama.


Or, we could just MOVE to Bend! The idea hit me after the second or third weekend trip to visit the boy. The 9 hour drive provided lots of think time.
Side note: I am addicted to HLN true crime stories on long drives - they are scary as hell but I am always comforted by the fact that 99% of the time, women are attacked by people they know. So ladies, hang around with nice people. We spent a few weeks in June thinking through the pros/cons - I love (and need) my job so I'd have to convince the boss that I could do my job well with a mix of working remotely and commuting (at the expense of the company) - neither of which are too unique in my world. In summary, there were lots of pros and no cons. I mean, we're talking about moving to Bend after all. Apart from liking our actual home (the physical location and feel) in Los Gatos, we were not huge fans of the area. Huge generalization and all but I always felt like it was full of privileged, self-absorbed, entitled, annoying, and rude people. There, I've said it. Oh, and, we like our seasons (a week of rain in November doesn't count as a season. I like all of them, Chris mostly likes winter. So, to cut an already long story a little bit less long, we went from house-hunting in hugely overpriced and over-crowded Silicon Valley to house-hunting in lovely Bend in the space of about 3 days. The only hard part was deciding between the 3 awesome houses we found within a week. In the end we decided on one that is 25% less rent than Los Gatos and 300% bigger. In the middle of all this, the boss kindly said yes and I am back to commuting to Cali on a fairly regular basis as I did for 15 months in 2011-2012. However, living in the same timezone and just over an hour flight makes a world of difference!

In the almost 3 months we've been in Bend we have had actual (2-way) conversations with more people than we did in 2 years in Los Gatos. Don't get me wrong - that's as much our fault as anyone's - we didn't go out of our way to make friends there. But there is no question that in Bend we have found a spot with 'our kind of people' and we are super excited to get settled in and really make it home. And ultimately to contribute to this community in a positive way. Bend is a place that has grown enormously in recent years and we want to make a real effort to give back and not just reap the benefits. We have already started this by sharing our dogs with neighbours - they are getting quite good at escaping from the yard. I do kind of miss the 6 foot wooden fence...


Now, back to the Timberline Trail. Well, let's start by saying that when you ask Jeff Browning how long it took him to run the trail a few weeks earlier, you should add 6 hours not 2 or 3, even if he was taking it easy. Bearing in mind that (a) we are not superstar ultrarunners and (b) we like to hike as much as run these days. We drove over to Government Camp on Friday night, found a campsite a mile down the road (needless to say in late October, in the pouring rain, it was empty) and enjoyed dinner and a beer at the brewery in town. Up at 5am, coffee, eggs and the last of the Trader Joe's smoked salmon (the best), and drove up to Timberline. It was a little before 7am when we started out in the rain with our headlamps. Our friend Shelley was meeting us later so we'd hoped to start by 6am but were still confident we'd be done by 8pm. HAHAHAHAHA. The first few hours were wet and grey but the mist in the thick forest was kind of cool. We went the wrong direction after crossing the Sandy River and added a bit over a mile. Some fun climbing after that, the beautiful Ramona Falls and then we around Bald Mountain we started to get some awesome views as the rain stopped and the sun came out. And finally, they was the mountain. Huge and rugged and beautiful and a little scary looking. We happened upon a few hikers in the next few miles - the only people we would see the entire way.


We had contemplated turning around a few times when we were at about 15-16 miles knowing that time was pushing on and we'd probably slow down later. But after crossing the 2 legs of the Muddy Fork river there was no way I was turning around and doing that again... little did I know that it was only the beginning of the crazy water crossings. I mean, I had read the overview and the repeated mention of 'somewhat difficult water crossing' but I didn't really think I'd be jumping a couple of feet or scrambling (on my ass) over slippery logs across rushing water again and again.


Onwards we went. Rounding the northwest side of the mountain provided some awesome views of the Glisan glacier, one of twelve glaciers on the mountain. The sky was getting bluer and we were pretty much dried out at this stage. Although each river crossing brought a new opportunity to change that. We filled up our water at Ladd Creek and continued along the fairly runnable trail. Though we mostly just ran the downhill sections. We were about halfway around by now (or so we thought) and were feeling good. The next section was gorgeous - meandering through the Dollar Lake fire area - the contrast of the bright green undergrowth with the silver and burnt black trees against the blue sky. We caught amazing views of Adams and Rainier to the north and the looming north west crags of Hood itself. By around 4:30pm we had arrived at mile 25-ish where the trail diverted straight uphill along the ridge on the western moraine of the Elliot Glacier. We did take a little wander down the original trail towards the creek itself but it was overgrown and looking again at the description of the "Elliot crossing options" including photos of rushing water far beyond what we had navigated thus far, we figured the glacier route was probably safer. The trail across the creek was officially closed in 2006 after several years of washouts and destroyed bridges, but several hikers have described their crossings at different points. We headed several hundred feet up the ridge and checking our altitude against the description we chose a fairly random descent of the western moraine. It was steep and the ground was constantly going from under us. We spread out so as not to dump rocks on each other. And we were grateful, once again, for deciding not to bring the dogs along on this particular adventure. The route across the glacier was equally precarious and we had difficulty picking out the 'climbers trail' ascending the eastern moraine. With the result that we just headed straight up. Not fun. 10 minutes later at the top I inspected my shoes as they seemed to be full of gravel despite wearing gaiters. I discovered that both of my lovely Scott Kinabalu's had giant holes on the outside upper and smaller holes along the inside. I knew I was a little rough on them just then but with less than 150 miles on their soles I wasn't expecting them to fall apart. We spotted a giant cairn about 30 feet down the ridge where the climber's trail likely emerged. We didn't bother to investigate. The scramble had been traumatic enough without peering over the edge again.


Onwards, in the fading light, to the Cooper Spur shelter less than half a mile away. This brought back fond memories of our last time up here in October 2012 while on a trip to finalize the location for the wedding and pick up 7-week old Juneau across the Colombia in Yakima. We had run up to the end of the Cooper Spur trail from Cloud Cap and ill-prepared for the fading light on that occasion we had to make our way down in the darkness. Not without some bloodshed. This time, we both had our headlamps and after a change of socks at the shelter we headed out on the very snowy path towards Hood Meadows. It was fully dark within half an hour and we lost the trail a few times as the snow was several inches deep and the footprints we had been following made their own way across some of the gullies. From the high point on Gnarl Ridge we rounded the exposed north east corner of the trail, losing elevation and snow cover, eventually descending almost 2000 feet to Newton Creek. Of course, we knew we'd be gaining most of that back in the coming hours. We knew our (revised) estimated return time was blown out of the water and sent a few apology text messages to Shelley who was patiently waiting at Timberline (luckily she had gotten out for a nice trail run herself heading south on the PCT - rather than coming to meet us - that would have been a long run!).

Several water crossings later - a little more hazardous under the light of headlamps - with several hundred feet of climbing in between, we eventually made our way across the upper reaches of Meadows ski resort. There is something kind of eerie about running under unmoving ski lifts in the dead of night. We kept thinking we had to be almost there but that trail wound on forever. Finally we descended again into the forest for the last time as we made our way to the last river of the night - White River - we had a little difficulty finding the best route across the multiple streams but got it done and started the last climb towards Timberline. A few miles later we saw the lights - which gave me cause for a Hooray! until I realized there was still a good mile or more of uphill and winding north almost going beyond the lodge before turning sharply and descending the final dirt path into the parking lot at around 11pm. "12-13hrs" Hah! - there's always next time - now that we are experts and all. 

We caught up with Shelley down in Government Camp were we bunked for the night. The half marathon back in Bend the following morning was not going to happen at this point! But we enjoyed the rest of a long weekend with our visitor and promise to be more hospitable hosts next time.

P.S. We're still enjoying living in Bend - so much so that we bought our first house together during the summer. It's been great settling into the neighbourhood. And we like having a 6ft fence again...

Sunday, February 2, 2014

Arrowhead 135

It's around 9pm Tuesday night. It's been dark for several hours but the temperatures haven't dropped that much. Not like last night. It will get colder in the hours before dawn and even though it won't be as cold as last night it will feel worse on my tired body. But right now, as I'm moving along at a decent pace (i.e., a little over 3 mph), checking out the wolf tracks along the edge of the trail, and enjoying the starry night, chewing some frozen PROBAR bolts, life is pretty good... Oh shit! The package drops to the ground and I put my gloved hand out and deposit the glob onto it. It can't be. It is. My nice shiny crown. In that moment I know I'll finish this race. After all, who doesn't love a good war story.

But let's not rush ahead, this race was all about taking it easy, staying relaxed, breaking it down into each segment and focusing on myself. And maybe that's why I enjoyed it so much. I got to think about me for 50+ hours - about what I needed, food, water, caffeine, an extra layer, a fresh neck gaiter, hiking poles or no hiking poles... I got to spend over 2 days in the woods living in the moment. It was like a break from life. It was exactly what I needed. Don't get me wrong. I like my life a lot. I am surrounded, both physically and in spirit, by people (and dogs) that I love very much. I enjoy the hectic, ever-changing nature of my days. I like my job way more than anyone should and enjoy the challenges it brings. But I also love my alone-time. And if there's one thing Arrowhead guarantees you, it's alone-time.

So as not to break (Chris') tradition, we started the race almost 10 minutes after all the runners along with a few other stragglers. I had my back-up headlamp on but didn't really need it. The ground was hard and the sled pulled easily. I knew it would take a toll on my body over the course of the race but no matter what I did, I couldn't get my bag under 30 pounds. Along with the sled weight and my snowshoes that I decided to bring at the last minute (memories of Chris' 2013 epic adventure), I was hauling around 37 pounds. My harness was a simple padded waistband with a large buckle in front and two different positions to hook the ropes. I started with the ropes in the back position but after around 25 miles moved them to the loops I had added a few days before the race on the side of the harness - this ended up being a much better position and I never switched back. I was using my trekking poles for most of the first section and had adjusted the wrist loops so that they fitted snugly over my 3-layer glove system: merino wool liner, soft shell medium weight mitt, outer water/wind proof mitt hand-made by Chris. Every so often I would take off the outer mitt and let them hang by the idiot loops to let my hands breathe a bit - especially if I’d been running for a while. Conversely, if I stopped for food or water which required taking off the inner mitt, I would layer up all 3 gloves as quickly as I could to get warmed up again. I didn’t once remove the liner glove throughout the race - the risk of frost-bite being too great in these conditions. -28F (-33C) at the start and into some wind until we made the turn south at the first shelter and after that the wind was mostly on our backs all the way to the Gateway checkpoint at mile 35. The shelters on the trail are 3-sided wooden structures that offer very little actual shelter and more often than not have empty beer cans strewn around the rocky ground. However, depending on the direction of the wind they can be a good place to pull over to make adjustments - and later in the race to roll out the sleeping bag. I made a quick pit stop at that first shelter as my water hose had frozen so I needed to get water from my bag. Chris had typically used a cooler to store his Nalgenes and I followed suit, fashioning the same insulated covers from foil bubble wrap (super lightweight and easy to remove the tops). I had started the race with 3 liters of boiling water as well as about 50 oz of warm water in my bladder on my back - no longer accessible with the frozen hose). Probably more water than I needed as I think I arrived to Gateway with 1 full Nalgene and the bladder. Still, I struggle to give up something as basic as water to reduce the weight. I drank several ounces, got some food and packed up again. Tony and Mike Lessard had pulled in also and we exchanged a quick hello. Chris and I had been over and back over the first few hours and as I got back on the trail I saw that he had stopped just up the trail and was taking off again. But he was running and I didn't feel much like doing that right now so I continued on walking, doing around 16-17 minute miles. There were several others in close proximity for the next few hours but after we crossed Hwy 53, the pack started to spread out and eventually I would find myself alone and, as you might imagine, quite happy about that. I couldn't believe it when I checked my Garmin at one point and saw I had covered 19 miles in around 5:30. I was so happy - I was sure I'd only been on the trail for 3 or 4 hours! Temperatures hadn't risen much throughout the day which was probably the crucial difference vs. the most recent "cold" year in 2011 when the daytime sunshine brought some warmth. Things were going well throughout this entire section, I has switched on my iPod a few hours earlier and was well into the first of the Hunger Games audiobooks that Aubrey, a friend from work, had given me for Christmas. As night began to fall, I felt confident I would make it to Gateway in good shape. I had seen a few folk go by on snowmobiles already, their race coming to a premature end, but I focused on the lights ahead of me that I could see from time to time. Soon enough I made the turn to Gateway and pulled in just behind Divesh.

On the way to Gateway

Photo credit: Burgess Eberhardt (view all images at this link)

Chris was still there having arrived about a half hour ahead of me. Gateway was pretty much what I had expected. A convenience store with a bunch of nooks and crannies to set up your station and get yourself sorted. I knew I would be here at least an hour so I started with handing over my wet clothes to the dryer knowing that would take around 45 minutes. In the end I realized the only thing that really needed drying was my fleece buff. My other outer layers I hung up around my chair and started to work on my feet. Following Chris' lead (yes, it certainly helps to be married to a winter race specialist), I had taped up a few toes and slathered the rest with Vaniply before putting on a lightweight Injini toe sock followed by a heavy duty Smartwool ski sock. I was wearing the SCOTT Nakoa Trail GTX shoes - they use a more breathable type of Gortex which presumably helps avoid moisture build up inside the shoe. Whatever it does, it was working like a dream and would continue to do so - I never once had cold feet and no blisters. I changed my socks, reapplying Vaniply but having no need to touch the tape. Everything was looking good. Knowing the temperatures would continue to drop and having felt my legs get a bit cold already, I pulled out my Montbell insulated pants and layered them between my Patagonia base layer tights and my (bright green) Marmot shell pants. The trick is to get dressed and out of there without getting too warm in the process - not easy when you're layering up in a toasty back room of the store! I had already filled my water bottles and bladder with warm water - one Nalgene with hot coffee - and had eaten a bowl of chili and a half bowl of soup. All in all, with the running around and repacking and chatting with folks in between, I was close to 2 hours at Gateway with Chris having left about an hour ahead of me. Still, I didn't feel stressed getting out of there - I was nicely dressed for the -35F (-37C) conditions and was looking forward to the hours ahead. Back onto the trail and back into my audiobook. Life was pretty good. I set myself a target of reaching Melgeorges by 7 AM. The mileages are all a bit screwy at this race so I was never quite sure what to believe but I figured it was somewhere between mile 72 and 75 so I prepared myself for 40 miles of fun.

The course continues to be fairly flat for the next several miles before hitting some hills after Sheep Ranch Rd. which I think is at mile 50-something. Throughout this stretch I was feeling pretty relaxed, still eating and drinking well. I was smarter with my hose and hadn't let it freeze up so I drank that first. I was very glad for the coffee as I felt quite sleepy in the early hours of the morning. There was some company along the trail with myself, Kevin, Divesh and Ben leap-frogging throughout the night. It was fun to see Divesh come ripping by telling me he needed to run to warm his hands and then catching up a mile later. And then repeating an hour later. I finished the first of the 3 (11 hour) audiobooks about halfway through this section and switched to a Talk Ultra podcast. I used to listen to these all the time when I was doing long trail runs in 2012 but having done no such thing in 2013 it had been a while since I'd listened to Ian Corless' slightly grating accent. It was an old episode from June 2013 so there was a lot of talk about the recent Comrades race and the upcoming WS100 race. I enjoy the show but I must have been in a critical mood as I kept telling Ian to just let his guests speak and stop asking questions in such a way as to answer half of them before the guest even has a chance to speak. And then there was Karl Meltzer doing his thing - he is usually pretty real, telling it like it is, but God the man does not want to offend anyone so every statement was followed by a retraction. Funny stuff. Or maybe it was just that I’d been awake for 24 hours. The hills were pretty regular now and big enough to get the heart rate up but not to sled down. I started to think about my plan for Melgeorges. I was prepared to spend a few hours there knowing I wanted to sleep for at least 1 hour. I was very happy to see the "5 miles" sign but knew it could well take longer than an hour and a half though as it turned out I hit the lake right at about 4 miles so I think it is in fact pretty accurate. The lake was pretty bad with the wind sweeping across it and much of the trail having disappeared but I knew I only had 20 minutes or so before a warm cabin awaited me. I rolled up to the Cedar cabin right at 7:30 AM - a little later than I'd hoped but feeling good. Sue and several others were seated around the main room and Alicia, Matt and others were sleeping upstairs. As usual at this time in the race, the cabin is a mix of drops and folks who are trying to get some rest and/or organize their stuff to get out the door again. John looked like he was about to take off soon. No-one else was on the move. Alicia had been sick and was trying to rest before heading out an hour later. I checked in with the volunteers and started to strip of my clothes for the dryer which this time amounted to several items including my socks, hat, neck gaiter and outer jacket which at that time was a hooded Marmot jacket with insulated panels in the front. I had a fairly lightweight Mountain Hardwear synthetic puff jacket under this which was quite dry. And under this 2 base layers - a next to skin Lululemon wool long sleeve and a North Face shirt with breathable underarms and windstopper panels in front - which, along with my tights, didn't come off me the entire race. Next up was 2 grilled cheese and then it was time to head over to the cabin we had rented and get some sleep. Racers are allowed to rent cabins at Melgeorges and in fact are encouraged to so do to spread the wealth a little. We shared a small 2-bed cabin between 5 of us (3 bikers and 2 runners) and when I got there one of the bikers and Chris were sleeping. I ran into Mark who's race had come to an end due to minor frostbite (there was much worse frostbite to be found). I hung up a few clothes to air out and hopped into the bunk bed above Chris at 8:15 AM (EVERYTHING takes 30 minutes longer than you think it should!!). I set my alarm for 9:30 AM knowing that I would extend it by a half hour if I felt the need to. I did exactly that having slept well and needing a little more. Eventually I got up just before 10 AM. I spent about 30 minutes dressing and repacking my bag including filling my bladder and Nalgenes (2 hot water, 1 coffee) and then headed back up to the main cabin. Chris had slept a little too and had just headed back out on the trail. I retrieved my dried clothes and finished the dressing process - adding my insulated Smartwool skirt over my shell pants in place of the insulated pant layer. The Smartwool skirt is similar in weight to the more typical down skirts but is filled with wool and polyester. On top I went with the 2 jackets again. It was just after 11 AM when I finally checked out. Alicia had left soon after 9 and unfortunately Sue had decided she wasn't going back out. I was surprised and sorry to hear that and in retrospect wish I had taken a bit more time to encourage her.

About a half mile out of Melgeorges I started to get very cold all of a sudden. I pulled out my parka for the first time - a snuggley puffy RAB 800 fill down monster. I was warm within minutes. And then of course I was too warm as the hills, ever-increasing in steepness and length, caused me to expend more energy than at any time in the race. So I switched back to the 2 jackets and cooled off even more when needed by opening the zippers. For whatever reason I didn't sled down any of these hills - I have no idea why! But I was happy with my pace. I had recharged and restarted my Garmin after Melgeorges. Amazingly it had lasted all the way there - that's right - the Garmin 910XT goes for 25 hours in arctic conditions! It read 75.19 miles as I pulled into the cabin. I had worn it on my wrist and this must have helped keep it warm as in the second half of the race I had it in my coat pocket and it froze up overnight. I was excited to think that I might catch Chris at some point. We had deliberately not planned to race together as we both knew this is a race where you have to always be looking after yourself and doing your own thing. Certainly, when a racer is in need of help, any of us would stop and risk getting cold (as several racers did throughout this race) - but as racers we should try hard not to be that person in need. We sign up for this event knowing the conditions and should understand the need to be self-sufficient out on the trail. Anything less and we put ourselves, our fellow racers, and the race itself, at risk. The other reason I hadn't particularly wanted to run with Chris is that I tend to turn into a whiny little bitch during races when he is with me - more so when he is pacing me (Leadville 2011) than when we are both racing. I complain and throw tantrums when really there is no need for that at all. But I was fairly sure that this wouldn't happen today. This race demanded a level head and so far I had only made one nasty comment to my sled and hadn't even come close to cursing the race director. There are a few road crossings in this section and a few miles after passing a sleep-walking Ed, I came out to a road where Mark's car was parked. Sure enough he had walked down the trail a few minutes with Chris and was heading back when I met him. Five minutes later I saw Chris around a turn. Right about this time the 2 bikers, Bob and Thomas, that had shared the cabin with us came rolling by along with Rick. Man, they had a nice rest :)

Chris and I were mostly together for the next several hours as night fell for the second time. Of course, we would do our own thing and stop to get food at different times, or to pee, or adjust clothing, so that we were often a quarter mile apart. And while together we would typically walk in series to make the most of the firmer sections along the edge of the trail. Added to that I was fully engrossed in book two of the Hunger Games! But the company was nice. After some flatter sections during the late afternoon, the hills were pretty big again and now I did ride my sled down every single one of them including a few that didn't really demand it. What a riot! Only once was I in serious danger of ending up wrapped around a tree. The huge winding hill with the bridge at the bottom was my favourite. Every downhill brought an equal uphill and my right mid-back was beginning to shout pretty loud. This wasn't really directly related to the hardness - I'd had some lower back pain Monday night that had since subsided - no, this was a very specific knot that has bugged me over the past few months particularly when sitting for long periods of time. I soon discovered that I could place the top of my trekking pole on the spot and lean back into it for a seriously deep tissue massage. I did this several times for about 10 miles and eventually it gave up and stopped bothering me. Nice how that sometimes happens. In the middle of all this the crown fell out and that made for more limited food choices. You would think a hole in your mouth would be enough to remind you to eat and drink on the other side but several times I forgot resulting in muffled screams under my neck gaiter. But I've had enough serious tooth pain to know that this wasn't so bad and was unlikely to get any worse at this point. If anything the cold clean air had a healing effect. Onwards we trudged, this definitely being the toughest part of the race for me. I thought I had a good chance of hitting the Ski Pulk checkpoint in 12 hours (11 PM) but hadn’t really factored in how bad the hills would be. And who knew if it was at mile 105 or 108 or 115 (for the record I am going with 112). Sleep deprivation was also a much bigger factor than the first night. Nevertheless we were in good spirits when eventually we hit the long winding flat section that leads to the hill before Ski Pulk. We arrived at 1:15 AM. Chris needed to check his feet so he went into the tent. I stayed outside, quickly filled up my bottles with boiling water, got a cup of hot chocolate and got moving again within 10 minutes. I planned to sleep for an hour a little up the trail and Chris thought he might do the same. The volunteer at Ski Pulk had said 26 miles to the finish. I took him at his word. I had got my watch going again and restarted it here so that I could keep an eye on my pace. I had also asked how Alicia was doing and was told she’d come through a few hours ago and was moving well. I don’t know that I would (or could) have changed my plans if she had been closer ahead but at this point I was happy to continue to focus on my own race and glad to hear she had managed to control her stomach (or at least not succumb to it) and was surely on cue to set a blistering course record. In the end Alicia finished first female and third overall in just seconds under 48 hours. A huge result. I have always thought 48 hours would be an awesome mark to set in this race.

I reached Mt. Wakemup a few miles later and pulled my ass up the giant hill and into the shelter. It was fairly clean and snow-free in the shelter itself so I pulled out my pad, bivy sack and bag and crawled in at 2:30 AM setting my alarm for 1 hour later. I woke and decided I needed another 30 minutes. I heard footsteps go by and also badly needed to pee so I didn’t sleep much after that and was up and on my way again before 4 AM. As I was getting packed up Ben (skier) went by. We had leap-frogged many times the previous day and I had left Melgeorges as he was getting ready to head out so I glad to see he was still moving well. What happened next is probably the single biggest reason I may do this race again. I walked down Mt. Wakemup. That’s right. The BIGGEST STEEPEST hill on the course and I decided not to sled it. In hindsight I think I was feeling shaky after just waking up and didn’t trust that I could keep my sled straight. Whatever. I missed out! A few miles later I caught up with Ben. I was running a little at this point hoping to also catch up with Chris. That took another hour or so. It was so cool to finally catch a glimpse of light up ahead. I quickly knew it was Chris as his headlamp is a super-bright white light. It probably took another 20 minutes to actually catch him. Makes me realize how crazy people must go at Tuscobia – the straightaways at Arrowhead are bad enough. You think the person is just ahead of you and you feel like you’re moving faster than them but even if you are when the difference is less than a minute per mile and the straight stretches on for a half mile... you get the picture. We were both still wearing our parkas and actually for me this was the coldest part of the race even though the temperature was probably around -18F (-27C). The combination of tiredness and low lying swamp area in the hour before dawn made for frigid conditions. On the plus side the incredibly beautiful sunrise brought a smile to my face. For the entire hour it took the sun to rise above the trees, the sky was glowing a beautiful bright orange. We were knocking out the miles. Running a little here and there. The bottom of my feet were feeling pretty sore at times but all in all I was more motivated to run and reach the finish sooner than to try to rest my feet. We caught up with Shane from New York who we'd met at Tuscobia and hung out with him for a bit. He said someone had passed him about 20 minutes ago and we figured it was probably Divesh. Sure enough we saw his lanky figure ahead on the trail a few miles later. We chatted for a while, giving him the good news that Alicia had finished in record time (Chris had checked the results page around 8 AM). We were all feeling pretty decent, it was getting a few degrees warmer with each passing hour and we were getting close. A snowmobile went by and Divesh thought he said we had 3 miles to go. According to my calculations (my watch had died at this point), if it really was 26 miles from Ski Pulk and if the finish line really was 10.5 miles from Shelter #9, then we still had at least 6 miles to go. Either way, it would be an hour or two, we were making good progress and feeling strong enough to mostly run. Running of course is a relative term and even more so at this point in the race. We were probably covering a mile in around 15 minutes but there were stops here and there, mostly for water. We came to the Vermillion Club junction and I got the sense we were getting close. And then the road crossing. Surely this was the road crossing where we had seen Chris in 2011 – less than a mile to go I thought? But that’s not what my calculations tell me!! Several minutes later we go by a development and I see the water tower but it doesn’t really register with me. Then I see Chris turn around and smile and utter those glorious words: We’re here! Sure enough, the casino was visible through the trees and we just had the final little hill to run up and over and happily make our way under the finish line banner.


I never fully envisioned myself at the start line of this race. Even after I mailed the entry form the day after it opened for newbie registration. Even after I showed up in International Falls, went though gear check and the pre-race meeting. Even after, no, especially after our 20 minute practice run the day before in the cutting north wind. And yet, I knew I was ready for it. I hadn't 'trained' in the traditional sense of ultra-running training. But I had kept a base fitness and had done some strength training. And I had Chris helping me with all my gear choices (OK, making many of my gear choices). Certainly, since we took over Tuscobia I have a developed a much stronger affinity for winter racing and I suppose somewhere inside me I knew that one day I would try this race. And 2014 seemed as good a year as any. It was an incredible experience. I almost feel guilty saying that I enjoyed it. My gear worked, the weather suited me. The trail was so packed. I was surrounded by people I truly enjoy hanging out with. And yet I was alone for the better part of 2 days. Alone in the woods with my own thoughts and dreams accomplishing something few people would ever attempt. How could I not enjoy it?

Thank you to Ken & Jackie and Russ and John and John's mother and all of the volunteers who make this race what it is; to Pierre and Cheryl Oster for having the vision to start this race 10 years ago, and to Dave & Mary Pramann for continuing to build it. Thank you all for your time and effort and for being part of Arrowhead 2014. And most of all thank you to Chris for motivating me to move outside my comfort zone and attempt this race. As Matt L put it... Couples that Arrowhead together stay together.

Want to hear more? My 5 minutes of fame on Ocean FM (Sligo, Ireland).


By the numbers
  • Finish time:                 51:24
  • Time at checkpoints:    04:17
  • Time on trail:               47:07
  • Females:                     2nd place
  • Overall:                       Joint 9th
  • Finish rate (run):          30% (17/56)
  • Finish rate (all races):   34% (48/142)

Gear List
  • Sled: Orange “Paris” sled with rope system (no poles)
  • Trekking poles: REI carbon power lock
  • Snowshoes: Atlas race 22 inch (didn't use them)
  • Bag: Cuben fiber custom design from North Sails, CT
  • Sleeping bag: REI Expedition bag -20F rating
  • Bivy sack: it was one of these with a waterproof base
  • Sleeping pad: blue foam
  • Hydration vest: Mountain Hardwear race vest with 50 oz bladder (worn under my jacket(s) - the pockets were great for extra storage
  • Cooler: donated to me full of beer and strawberries by Karen Shoenrock at the 2010 Afton 50K (it's been through a lot and still standing!!)
  • Water bottles: Nalgene HDPE wide-mouth (note: these ones are rated for boiling water unlike the clear ones) with home-made insulation sleeves
  • Headlamp: Gemini Lights Xera (used at 10% power setting for the most part - more than enough light and lasts for 23 hours with the 2-cell battery); carried charger and I also carried a back-up headlamp: Petzel Myo with 3 AA lithium batteries
  • Watch: Garmin 910XT
  • Sunglasses: never wore them

Clothing List (Wearing/carrying, not worn items are in italics)
  • SCOTT Nakoa Trail GTX shoes (mens which is typical for me, but also a half size bigger than usual)
  • Injinji ultralight weight socks (4 pairs)
  • Smartwool ski socks (2 pairs)
  • Outdoor Research gaiters
  • Stoic merino wool midweight socks (2 pairs)
  • Patagonia capilene 3 base layer tights
  • Marmot shell pants 
  • Lululemon sports bra
  • Lululemon base layer tee
  • North Face Isotherm half zip (a really great piece)
  • Marmot Variant jacket synthetic
  • Mountain Hardwear Zonic jacket
  • Montbell insulated pants (mine were synthetic not down)
  • Smartwool PhD SmartLoft skirt
  • RAB Neutrino Endurance parka 800 fill down
  • RAB meco liner gloves (2 pairs but wore same pair the entire way)
  • Saucony run mitts
  • Outer mitt water/wind proof hand-made by Chris
  • RAB Endurance down mitt (my number one item of gear)
  • Buff with fleece lining (most used gaiter)
  • Smartwool neck gaiter (forgot this in dryer at Melgeorges)
  • Smartwool base layer long sleeve top (used as a neck gaiter)
  • Sugoi thick polyester running hat (never left my head)
  • Sugoi polyester balaclava (forgot this in dryer at Melgeorges)
  • Sugoi polyester neck gaiter (was glad I didn't forget this!)  
  • Down Works down balaclava (used this for several hours Tuesday night)
  • Black Rock Gear down hat (didn't use this much)
  • Black Rock Gear down mitts (didn't use these much)
  • North Face Verto Micro Hoodie (nice piece but not for this race)
  • Craft base layer tights
  • Ice breaker base layer long sleeve top
  • Ice breaker base layer short sleeve top
  • RAB synthetic base layer long sleeve top

Food List (Listed in order of the most eaten, averaged 150-200 cal/hr but carried at least twice that)
  • FLIPZ chocolate covered pretzels
  • Surf Sweets gummy worms, regular and sour (real food, not corn syrup)
  • PROBAR Bolts
  • PROBAR Meals
  • GU salted caramel (YUM), island nectar and passion fruit flavours
  • Power Bar Energy Blasts cola flavour (caffeine)
  • Twizzlers
  • Chocolate covered espresso beans
  • Snickers (bite size)
  • KitKat (bite size)
  • Dried mango (perfect, doesn't freeze)
  • Bobo's bars (these don't freeze)

Medical
  • Moleskin
  • Vaniply
  • Waxlene
  • Lip balm

Entertainment
  • iPod & charger
  • iPhone & charger 


For complete race information check out the race website.

The catch-up post

Forgive me blog for I have abandoned you for almost a year. Not only have I ignored you but I also have failed to set you straight. There you were thinking I was off marathon training, doing speed-work, God knows maybe even track work, and no doubt setting records all over the place. When in reality, I was extending my lazy stretch, running 20 miles a week MAX and instead turning my attention to yoga and hot pilates and even a bit of strength training. CRAZY stuff I know! I got married too. So whatever else happened in 2013 doesn't really matter. Well, except for signing up for Arrowhead 135. That is an important piece of information. More to come.

Sunday, March 3, 2013

And so it begins again...

I am kicking off my marathon training plan tomorrow. And who knows, maybe I will actually track a bit of it here. In any case, rather than do all the work I had planned for today, I decided it was time to spruce up the old blog with a few new pictures and by chance I was reading something today in which the quote "Not all those who wander are lost" caught my attention. Seems fitting. I may be planning less physical wandering this year (in the hopes of actually spending more than two weeks at a time in the same place) but my mind will always be a-wandering. Not in search of finding myself. Finding wonder is all.

I have not signed up yet but I am pretty sure that Grandma's Marathon in Duluth MN will be the goal race. It can be a hot and humid one but I love the event and after hours of researching mid-June races, it seems like the best option for a PR. I expect it will take several weeks to feel like I am making much progress. I have really taken it easy since last August. After Waldo I just needed a break. It had been 12 months since I had started training for Hellgate, Seregno etc. I have been enjoying the time off from consistent running and started to get back into spin classes and even a little bit of pool time. But I do want to feel fit again and I am excited by the challenge of the road marathon. The training should be more manageable than ultra training which is what I need right now from a time perspective, though I don't expect it to be one bit easier.

Monday, February 18, 2013

I was just thinking...

2012 has come and gone oh so quickly. But what a year it was.

On the running front: the opportunity to run for Ireland at the World 100k Championships, a marathon PR, a return to one of my favourite races ever - Waldo 100k, and several other races and training runs (the most memorable being in Big Basin Redwoods SP - don't come to the Bay Area without checking it out!).

On the work front: continued to settle into the no-longer-new job here in CA, made easier by finally selling our house in Mpls and moving to Los Gatos in June. Love my job. Every day. Almost. I know, I hate smug people too.

On the family front: I got to be a godmother again to my beautiful niece Ailish. The trip home in May came just after the 100k race in Italy and my folks had very thoughtfully put together a party at home with several friends and neighbours. Good times. We welcomed another (equally beautiful!) niece, Isabelle, in August. Later in the year, over Thanksgiving, I visited my lil' sis in Abu Dhabi, her adopted home for a few years. And then Christmas in Ireland, but not before a few days in Paris (work, how bad?). Thus I broke our New Year's resolution to spend holidays together not once but twice! I love spending Christmas at home. And it's almost as much fun as winter camping in northern Minnesota.

On the canine family front: we found Juneau after a few months of searching shelters, first locally and eventually we were looking at puppies in New Jersey! Luckily we only had to go as far as Washington. After about an hour of wondering who this uber-friendly, over-excited, cannot stop jumping on me, imposter was, Cooper soon warmed up to her and they are like two peas in a pod now. But apparently not cute enough to make it into the nieces and nephews calendar. But I'll keep trying.

On the really important front: getting engaged in July was a moment to cherish. A whole week of moments to cherish. We spent 7 days on the road, running and camping... Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite, Mt. Moriah Wilderness in eastern Nevada, Mount Nebo in the southern Wasatch, the first section of the Bear 100 in the northern Wasatch... one awesome day followed by another. We treated ourselves to a Holiday Inn in Logan (where unbeknownst to me Chris has over-nighted the ring) before heading out to camp at Tony Grove Lake (also a stop along the Bear 100 - if you have not been to this spot consider running the race just to see it!). We wanted to give Cooper a break so we went for solo runs up to Naomi Peak. It was a picture perfect day. I took a photo from the top and decided that Utah might just be my favourite state. Even without the perspective of hindsight I already knew this was a special day. And so it was, after Chris did his run (sadly in drizzle and clouds!), we cooked up a freeze dried meal, cracked open a beer and settled in under the tall trees by the lake, sheltering from the light rain. And the evening just got better from there. We finished up the trip with a Josh Ritter concert at Red Rock Garden in SLC with friends. Sounds like the perfect week? It was. Funny that until the day before we started this trip we were supposed to be doing the Wasatch Relay and most likely not getting engaged. Yet. I love it when life just happens.

And just like that it's 2013. Well, not before a successful Tuscobia - due in no small part to the awesome volunteers who helped us out. Going above and beyond what they signed up for - bike trailer breakdown, delayed race start, missing biker... no problem!

A big year ahead. Already it feels like a big year. My first foray into winter racing with a teaser at Triple D in Iowa followed by Actif Epica in Winnipeg this past weekend. Will there be more? Possibly. Iowa was good fun and well organized - especially the finish at a bar with a free tab AND a massage concept. But more ice than snow on the trails. Manitoba presented slightly harsher conditions with a sub-zero start and colder windchills throughout the day and night. Though it sounds like we were lucky given the blizzard conditions complete with north winds the folks up there are experiencing today. Of course, Chris was regretful when he heard this news. But then again, his idea of winter racing is a little different from mine! Again, the race was well organized with great volunteers at the checkpoints (some a little worried about how the "Californians" were handling the cold) and unexpected, but most welcome, support crews every now and then along the course. I ran with Sue Lucas from MB for most of the second half of the race and Chris caught us with about 20 miles to go. The toughest sections were probably in the first half but the deep snow section after dark and the crazy windy frontage road section more than made up for some pretty runnable sections in the second half. Not to mention the advent of tiredness and a few annoying blisters towards the finish. However, the last few miles along the Red River made it all okay. It reminded me of one of the most incredible training runs ever - a 16-mile night run on the frozen St. Croix some years ago. I was cold, tired, scared shitless of the open water along the edge but happier than ever. I ran a few miles of it alone and thought over and over how lucky I was. Grateful in that "I can't believe I get to do this" sort of way. Thank you again Joel.

In between the frigid runs there was 6 days of running in Costa Rica with two ladies I am blessed to call close friends. "The Coastal Challenge" lived up to it's name. Beautiful scenery, miles and miles of incredible jungle trails, interspersed with miles of trails that were never meant to be trails, beaches that went on forever (good when chilling, bad when running and baking in the sun 8 degrees from the equator) and waterfalls... waterfalls that we could have swam in all day! We sweated profusely, suffered a little, complained some, laughed a lot, and took it all in as we meandered our way from Manuel Antonio to Drake's Bay. There are some great photos here, and great photos seemed to be mostly what this race was about.

What's next? A change of focus. Marathon training. Recovery first - the jungle blisters healed but were replaced with a few arctic blisters and the legs will take a few days to work as intended. But I'm excited to jump into some shorter, and hopefully quicker stuff for the next few months. And I believe I have also committed to a triathlon this spring. And there will be a wedding in July. A nice small one halfway up a mountain.

Somewhat in order...


Serengo with Marie and Mum before the WC100k start. Photo by Tom Hunt.
Juneau's first experience of snow!
They sit so pretty!
And play so well...
Cooper loves Utah too!
Redwoods
Bliss
Maybe Heaven
Heading out of town after CP1. Photo by Sveta.

Monday, September 3, 2012

World 100K Race Report

I've been feeling bad about not writing any race reports all year and then I realized I sort of wrote one about the trip to Italy for Alex over at Ultra Minnesota. So here it the link. And while you're on there, check out the latest posts as the mid-west ultra community prepare for the big dance up at Superior this weekend...